Discovering Page County Above and Below Ground
As written by James Allen
Indian Burial Mounds
Indian Trails and Burial Mounds in Page County Va. While exploring the history of the Massanutten, I learned of Indian Burial mounds on the west side of the south fork, just passed Rileyville Va. Not surprising really, given the richness of the Valley and the river. The mounds along with Indian Burial Ridge are on National Forrest property. There are public hiking trails that take you along the ridge, and as you can imagine some spectacular views from the top. The information is readily available online. The mounds remain, but are empty now. They were dug out and the remains, along with any artifacts were removed. To date I have not been able to determine just where the remains went, but I did read that there are countless rooms in storage with just such items at the Smithsonian.
If you are like me, you thought that all Indians created mounds, or burial sites. As I dug into this, I found that is not the case. While some tribes did others did not. Some buried their dead individually outside of their homes. Virginia places.Org tells us that during the Middle Woodland Period, the dead in the Northern Shenandoah Valley were buried close to a towns palisade (defensive fence,) then every five years or so they would be moved to a sacred burial mound. As mentioned above, Page County has a couple of these such mounds. Many years before the first settlers came to the Shenandoah Valley, there were no permanent Indian Settlements to leave mounds in the Valley. The Shenandoah Valley became the hunting grounds to the Iroquois tribes, who fought the Catawba Nation war parties for decades along the path through the Valley. By 1722 settlers continued to push ever westward, so a treaty was formed. Virginias Colonial government, led by Governor Alexander Spotswood, brokered a deal with the six nations. The treaty would keep the settlers to the east side of the Blue ridge. However, by the 1930s settlers began crossing into the valley in large numbers. In part because of huge land grants given to settlers to go, and settle the Valley by the same Virginian government this time headed by Lord Fairfax.
As the settlers continued to come into the valley, it was clear that the treaty was more to keep the people of the six nations from moving east. In 1744 the Haudenosaunee (people of the six nations) sold the Shenandoah Valley to the English for the equivalent of $100,000 I mean at this point what else could they do? They were going to lose the Valley one way or another.
There is quite a lot of information regarding Native Americans in Va going back some 15,000 years. Sources include: Native American Communities of the Shenandoah Valley by Dr Carole Nash Website Virginia places.org, photo taken by Mr. Dewey Sours of Page County.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz December 9, 2024, Hits 4417.
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The Burner Barn Burning-
In late September 1864, General Ulysses Grant sent out a general order to destroy the entire Shenandoah Valleys food making ability. For four plus years the Valley had provided food to the southern war department. For four years off an on the Union Army attempted to control the Valley with little success. Things were different now, what was left of the Southern Army was with General Lee, trying to protect Richmond, leaving only a rapidly shrinking fighting force to protect the entire Valley. General William Tecumseth Sherman divided his army, sending part down what is now Rt. 340 with the other half driving down what is now Rt11. The troops were instructed to burn all crops, all barns, some houses while confiscating all cattle. The exceptions were, if the barn was empty it could stand, or if a widow owned it and the house they were to be spared. There is much written about this with many varying details.
To a boy almost ten none of that mattered, it was just another day with chores to do. Maybe even a little fishing once the chores were done. Sure, the adults were talking and folks were wringing their hands and praying for this or that, but it wasn’t until he and his brother heard the words “Union Calvary were coming”, did they perk up. Now that would be something to see. The following morning the boys got their wish. No sooner than their father hid what was left of his cows, did the troopers ride into the yard. The boys ran out to meet them, soon to be ten years old Danny Burner ran up to the lead trooper, pleading to let him go in to get the eggs before they burned their barn. The trooper was so struck by the boy that he allowed him to collect the eggs. Upon returning from the barn with his basket full of eggs, the trooper called out to the boy and offered him a trade. I will spare your barn if you give me all of your eggs. That was a great trade Danny thought, and he smiled from ear to ear as he handed over the eggs.
Meanwhile Mr Danny A Burners cows came out of hiding when they heard the cow bells of other cows that had just been collected from other farms. Mr Burner surely felt all was lost. That is until he came back and saw his barn still standing. Why didn’t they burn the barn Mr Burner asked? We traded young Danny said, they got the eggs and we kept the barn. In 1877 some twelve years after the war, many families would attempt to be compensated for their losses during Sherman’s March through the Valley. Some would do better than others at getting some or all of their money back.
I first saw this story in Avenues of Armies by Robert Moore. The image is from Historical Notes on the Blosser Family during the Civil War.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz November 5, 2024, Hits 3778.
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Abandoned Cemeteries in Page County – Peter J Keyser Cemetery. Page Valley Estates
There are dozens of little cemeteries scattered throughout Page County, many of them are abandoned. One such is the Peter J Keyser Cemetery. A small very old cemetery that is said to be haunted. Peter J Keyser Sr. was very well known in Page County and Luray. Peter J Keyser Sr. had eight children with two wives. At one me there were three of the Keyser brothers living across from Rileyville along the South Fork.
In 1939, Peter James Keyser Jr. left his only living descendant, Virginia Pearl (Keyser) Vaughan, $1116 a month to maintain his father’s cemetery. Well in truth he left her $50 a month, which today would be estimated at $1116. Peter James inherited the task from his brother Issac when their mother passed. Father Peter J Keyser sr. who built the cemetery, left a little something for upkeep and maintenance. They were also instructions to finish the wrought iron fence should he not be able to, along with who could be buried there. He only wanted family members to be buried in his cemetery.
There are just eighteen people buried there inside the fence, (outside the fence is another story.) The first to be buried there was Mary Ann Obtz Keyser. The first wife of Peter J Keyser Sr. Born in 1804 and passed in 1826. The last to be buried there was Mary Catherine Keyser, wife of Peter James Keyser Jr. Born in 1877 and died in 1926. She is buried alongside her two infants, one passing in 1901 and the other in 1908. Neither were named. These are all direct descendants from Pioneer Charles Sabason Keyser, who was the grandfather of Peter J Keyser Sr.
Six years aer her father’s death In 1945, Virginia Pearl and then husband John W Vaughan would sell the cemetery as part of a two hundred and seventy-five acre farm to a Luray newcomer, Urban Westenberger. Without getting deep into the weeds, the cemetery eventually ended up as part of the George Washington National Forrest. Despite nature and party goers from decades ago the little cemetery is in decent shape. It would not take much of an effort to restore it back to the way it was. Given the circumstances though I do not see that happening. Like the hundreds of little cemeteries scattered along the Shenandoah trail, this one will eventually be swallowed up by mother nature. As for the hauntings, there have been numerous tales of voices heard, orbs floating and the like. While I can’t say for certain, Id like to believe the only spirits out there may have been in cans or bottles. Then again, I only explore during the day.
Figure 1 Peter J Keyser Cemetery 2024 The figure to the left is unknown. Happy Halloween.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz October 5, 2024, Hits 3295
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WHERE DID ALL THE CABOOSE’S GO?
Somewhere between graduating from school, having kids, and getting established in a career, they phased out the Caboose. They were very sneaky about it to, they took their time and slowly got rid of them thinking we wouldn’t notice. Well, they were right, I mean I noticed once in a while the train was missing the Caboose, or was it? Life can get pretty busy. All of my life I loved to watch trains, who didn’t? Steam locomotives were long gone before I was born, so I didn’t really know to miss them. Now days it seems most people get aggravated when the cross bars come down, not me. I do miss the Cabooses though. As kids we would wait and wait until finally one of us would spot it, “there it is!”, so cool. No man standing at the end though, its ok maybe next time. It was the trifecta to see a train, hear the horn and see the Caboose. Perfect, now if the man was standing outside the Caboose, eureka! In the early 2000s I had the opportunity to explore the Virginia Transportation Museum. It was there that I spotted many of the missing Cabooses. Everything was cool until I saw them, they were lined up in rows side by side and behind one another. Some still good looking, but many were old, all now relics from a bygone era. It’s kind of like the houses in rural Virginia, people just can’t bear to get rid of them. I get it they cost too much, they aren’t needed, technology is so much better now. Well, I don’t care, they could put a hollowed-out Caboose at the end of the trains. They don’t need to do anything but look like a Caboose. Think of all the smiles they would be putting on people’s faces. Oh my God, did you see that, there goes a Caboose. Just maybe it would even slow people down, and make them happy to see the cross bars come down.
The Town of Shenandoah’s Caboose. Photo by Amos Thomas
This picture was taken at Shaffer’s Crossing Roanoke Va. by Jim Allen
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz September 7, 2024, Hits 2811
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More from E.O.B July 15th 1862 Occupation of Luray Va - 6th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry
When we last left trooper E.O.B they were fighting off guerrilla attacks daily from bands of Southern Cavalry and Local Milia. Riding with the 6th Ohio brought new meaning to” on the job training,” they learned quickly to increase their scouting party numbers to sixteen men to keep from being overwhelmed during ambushes. The kept their horses saddled and ready 24 hours a day, they also moved camp on a regular basis. E.O.B is writing back home explaining the condition of the Shenandoah Valleys farm land below.
“Children and fools generally speak the truth and the children say they can’t find anything to buy now”. “These valleys are generally very productive, when well cultivated, but they are being neglected very much now. Only a crop of spring grains are growing, and those not well cared for, and a large portion of the ripened wheat will have to fall upon the ground unharvested. The cattle and hogs are gone and going, and no salt to preserve what may be le. We have been offered a dollar a pint for salt. The old bacon is nearly gone, and the old flour and wheat are getting scarce, if we are to believe the people. There is no trade in groceries as none can get in here.
The country side abides in fruits, especially peaches, plums, cherries, and berries. For the past two weeks we have had great times living on cherries and berries. The cherries (several kinds) are excellent. We really believe that our regiment picked ten bushels of sweet ones the first day at our present campsite. So you see we have had some good things.
Yours E.O.B
Letter taken from the “The life and times of Colonel William Stedman of the 6th Ohio Cavalry”
No source was found for the image.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz August 8, 2024, Hits 2352
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The Second Burning
There were two burnings in the Shenandoah Valley that devastated Page County, and surrounding counties for generations to come. The latest one came back in the late 1920s and into the 1930s,
when President Woodro Wilson wanted a National Park on the east coast. There were commissions
and panels created, but at the end of the day the Blueridge Mountains in Virginia was picked.
Reports were written then presented, and all were in agreement. There was one stipulation however from the President, that was no federal money would be used. In other words, Virginia and its counties would have to figure out how to obtain the land.
In the beginning the counties were able to give, and or grant the National Park much of the land needed. In the end it wasn’t enough, so the government began finding creative ways to take the land. There were rezonings, purchases for pennies on the dollar, and downright theft. All of this was made possible by a commissions study of those living along the mountain. In short, the study concluded that they were stuck in the 1800s, they were lawless, there were no communities, or organization what so ever. They would be doing them a favor. Give them pennies on the dollar for their land, as they are too dumb to even understand. Nearly one hundred years later many are still bitter, and rightfully so. So the burnings began. Every house, barn and dwelling were to be burnt to the ground.
To this day mother nature has not been able to cover all of the chimneys still rising up out of the thick underbrush, as if in defiance. There are still little clusters of homes covered in plant growth that were bought out, but not burned down as an outcry of folks came pouring in, “To Stop this Madness!”
The Shenandoah National Park is not proud of their history, but at least it in not hidden. You can read incredibly detailed accounts of how all of that transpired right on their website.
A couple of good articles.
Blue Ridge Heritage Project
The spirits of Shenandoah National Park
An overgrown cemetery is tucked in the woods off the Appalachian Trail, very close to the Swift Run Gap Entrance Station. Before the park’s creation in the 1930s, hundreds of families lived in the Blue Ridge, within the boundaries of what became the park. They ran farms, orchards, schools, stores and mills. And they left behind more than 100 cemeteries, some visible from hiking trails, others deep in the backcountry. (Sarah L. Voisin/The Washington Post)
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz July 10, 2024, Hits 1893
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Five Guys and One Hundred Thousand Acres
In 1731, the governor and colonial council in Virginia granted five guys (all partners) headed up by one Robert McKay Sr. from Pennsylvania, 100,000 acres of land in the Shenandoah Valley between Winchester and Front Royal. However, that would be stretched well into page counties South Fork land before it was all over. There was but one condition, they needed to recruit 100 families to settle the land over the next four years. These five guys were no dummies, they immediately saw that there was no fine print. There was nothing telling them that the 100,000 acres had to be one giant block of land.
I can see these five guys sitting around a table smoking those long pipes, looking at each other grinning from ear to ear. “Have you read this” one would say? “Over and over” they said, we get to pick the land blocks. I can tell you with certainty that there were no Indians present at that meeting.
After four years of beating the bushes going from town to town, they could only recruit 54 families.
The colonial council and governor agreed that would be fine. Let the land dividing begin.
These guys took all the best tracks of land, while staying away from the less desirable tracks.
This would be challenged in court of all things by a guy named Lord Fairfax. Oh, those pesky northern Virginians. In the end the grant held, and folks began settling. Not only did they settle they sold off of some their land as more and more folks came into the Valley.
It all sounds so easy, well except that there were no roads to this land only Indian trails. There were no bridges across that part of the Potomac River. They basically had to cut their way through a large Pennsylvania forest down into Va, cross the river, and that was just to get above Harpers Ferry. Now they do it all over again to find, then settle their parcels of land all along the Valley. Many of these settlers would build multipurpose homes, part fort, storage building, and home all in one. For a time in this Valley, they are taking their weapons to work with them, and staying as close to the Fort as possible. Remember that saying “don’t wonder off alone,” now you know where it came from.
So the next time I’m outside whining about mowing or weed whacking our one acre, I will think about my early family members. Don’t laugh, we Allen’s played our part back in the pioneer days, and as if the Shenandoah Valley wasn’t hard enough, we ended up migrating deeper west to what is now the Huntington West Va. Area.
Chronology Of Land Grants In The Shenandoah Valley:
1729 – Robert Carter granted 50,000 acres in the lower Valley (this section remained primarily English)
6/17/1730 – John Van Meter granted 10,000 acres on the fork of the Shenandoah River and 20,000 acres “not already taken up by Robert Carter”.
6/17/1730 – Isaac Van Meter granted 10,000 acres between Carter’s land, the River and Opequon Creek.
6/17/1730 – Jacob Stover (a Swiss) granted 10,000 acres (5,000 at Massanutten, 5,000 in Rockingham County)
10/28/1730 – Alexander Ross and Morgan Bryan granted 100,000 acres near present day Winchester (Quaker settlement)
6/10/1731 – William Beverly et al. Granted 20,000 acres on the western side of the lower Valley
6/10/1731 – John Fishback et al. Granted 50,000 acres between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Shenandoah River in present day Warren and Page Counties
10/21/1731 – Robert McKay and Joist Hite granted 100,000 acres (McKay was Scots-Irish and this points out why Germans and Scots-Irish co-mingled in the valley near Winchester)
5/5/1732 – Francis Willis et al. granted 10,000 acres on both sides of the South Shenandoah (up to Stover’s tract)
10/27/1732 – William Russell granted 20,000 acres near present day Front Royal
10/28/1734 – John Tayloe et al. granted 60,000 acres adjoining Stover’s northern tract.
1736 – Benjamin Burdon granted between 100,000 to 500,000 acres in present day Rockbridge and Augusta counties.
If you want to go even further back, this site breaks down the different American Indian Periods.
https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/native-americans-in-the-shenandoah-valley.htm
This photo was taken by Jim Allen "White House"
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz June 1, 2024, Hits 1213
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Redman Store
At one time there was a little ole couple, that ran a little ole store. As far as we know this couple didn’t have any little ole children, but they had a little ole house across from the store. Not surprisingly they had a little ole barn, with a little ole pasture. Now it would be perfect if they had a little ole cow, but I do not know that to be true. This store was very convenient at the time for folks that did not want to drive back into Luray, or over to Stanley. They sold milk, eggs and bread and a lot of other things. Yes, they sold candy and cold sodas for the kids to. Like all of us the couple grew old and passed away. I was not told how or why they past, only that they grew old and that the store went to one of their nephews who lived in New York. He did not want the little store, house or little barn, he had no use for them, so he sold them. I would love to tell you that the new owner restored the store, built a new house and put a cow in the field. However, that was not to be, as sometimes things sit to long and the land itself is worth more than the buildings that sit on them. The Little ole store is still there on the corner but barely. If you look real close across the street and into the trees, you can see what is left of the little ole house, and the little ole barn. The current owner gave me permission to take the photos and tell this story.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz May 5, 2024, Hits 733.
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LAST STOP BEFORE LURAY
If you wanted to come to Page County to visit family in the early 1900s, you probably took a train. Perhaps you came in from Manassas, or Fairfax through Front Royal. Between Front Royal and the town of Shenandoah there were several little depots or stations along the way. Sadly, many of these communities are long gone, and with them their depots/stations. One such would be the Elgin Depot in Kimball Va. Last stop before Luray folks! In some cases, the train didn’t stop at all, they could snag the mail bag from a line on the way by. In 1910 the Elgin Depot was slated for expansion to help with the ever-growing N&W Railways freight business. Other than that, I found very little on this Depot, and so I have no idea if it ever did expand. We do know that it was not used that far into the future and in fact it has been long gone for some me now. Armed with an old map I set out to find the exact spot of its location. I believe that I succeeded. The house in the distance still stands. The Kimball Post Office which was on the other side of the Depot is also gone. Interestingly there are a few old non-functioning poles still standing in the area. Did you know that Kimball Virginia was named after a very early N&W railway president? “Frederick J Kimball” under Kimball N&W railway would become famous for their manufacturing steam locomotives in Roanoke Va. The following is provided by Wiki. “A request was made to rename the town of Big Lick, now Roanoke, in his honor, but Mr. Kimball turned it down. Kimball Avenue in Roanoke, Virginia, was named in his honor. A decorative fountain in downtown Roanoke was named for him and dedicated in 1907. The rail station Kimball, just north of the town of Luray, VA was originally named after F.J Kimball, but the name was later changed to Elgin to eliminate confusion with another station. Kimball Road in Luray still bears his name though.” The black and white photo was found in the “The Pictorial Heritage of Page County” book. Great book with lots of nice photos. The other images were taken and or created by the author.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz May 5, 2024, Hits 733.
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Jimmy Bell
In April of 1862, Page Counties own Jimmy Bell, a 1st Lieutenant in the 7th Virginia Cavalry, was captured while guarding the Columbia Bridge near Alma Virginia. He was transferred to Winchester, then off to Baltimore, and finally he was sent to Fort Delaware.
There Jimmy remained while the war went on. It was not uncommon for both sides to exchange prisoners at various times early in the War, and so it was for Jimmy. He was sent to Aikens Landing for exchange however, he would finish the war as a private. While he served in various units, eventually Jimmy would once again join a Virginia Calvary regiment. On Nov 5th of 1864 he would go awol, only to return on December 31st.1864, no details were given. Jimmy would ride out the last few months of the war unharmed.
Who the heck was Jimmy Bell? Jimmy Bell was born on June 8th 1840 as James H Bell, and only child, his parents were John Westley Bell, and Rachel Keyser Bell. Jimmys father would be brutally murdered by a couple of his slaves in 1842 while Jimmy was two years old. No explanation was given in the records. Thus, the hauntings of the Shenandoah Rivers South Fork were born. Jimmy and his mother would soon move in with his grandfather, George Keyser on his farm the “The Green Castle”. Jimmy Bell had it good at his grandfathers and was surrounded by friends and lots of family. In 1859 George Keyser would pass, leaving his farm to his daughter Rachel, who in turn would pass five years later, leaving it all to Jimmy in Jan of 1864. The war would end the following year and he would return to the Green Castle.
Jimmy was pretty much set for life, he had a large farm with a beautiful small mansion built by his grandfather along the Shenandoah River. He had good people running and taking care of the farm.
He was well liked in the community, and would travel around staying with friends and family. Life was good for Jimmy, that is until June 1st 1866. He had just arrived home from an afternoon in Luray. To those that worked for him nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Later that evening Jimmy would retire to his chambers never to be seen alive again. Jimmy Bell would take his own life later that night, no notes, or letters, and nobody saw it coming. It is said that Jimmy used a service pistol to take his life.
On June 3rd the day of Jimmy Bells funeral, a Writer by the name F J.W. Wood wrote, “No young man in Page County ever began life with brighter prospects than Jimmy Bell, and none ever came to a sadder end”.
This image was created by the author James Allen.
Sources used include:
U.S. Civil War Soldier Records and Profiles 1861-1865
The Page Courier article in 1896.
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz April 19, 2024 Hits 379.
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E.O.B writes back to Ohio - he is in Page County during the Civil War.
In early July 1862, a newly formed all volunteer Union Cavalry Regiment (6th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry) was tasked with occupying the small town of Luray Virginia. Just three months earlier they were drilling in central Ohio. The 6th Ohio Calvary Regiment was put together from ten different counties across northern and north central Ohio. Interestingly the vast majority of the troopers were not proficient in riding at all. Most could drive a wagon sure but to ride, shoot, maneuver, hardly. They would learn quickly or they would not survive.
Below is an excerpt from a letter written by Union Trooper “ E.O.B” going back to Ohio to his parents. “Know that at this time only the 6th is left to occupy Luray and Page County. The rest of the Union Army has moved north. Also keeping in mind that this regiment is inexperienced and losing troopers to accidents regularly. Just the day before they lost the company Bugler when his pistol discharged into his knee as he mounted his horse”.
E.O.B. writes on June 15th 1862 from Luray Virginia.
“We have been highly complimented by Brigadier Gen. Lloyd and Gen Stienwehr for gallantly defending Luray and keeping our good position. The 6th is learning their style, will give them enough of their own play. But they have greatly the advantage, knowing every crook, turn, and hiding place in this mountainous country which is peculiarly adapted to guerrilla warfare, and then every citizen, men, women, (woman are the worse) act as spies, and inform them of our every move, troop strength etc.
Some means must be adopted to drive them out of these mountains or they will fight us for forty years.
The main source for this post came from “The Life and Times of
Colonel William Stedman of the 6th Ohio Cavalry.”
This image came from americancivilwar.com
This Article Posted on Shenandoah Newz April 14, 2024
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Another one of my hobbies is researching Urban Westenberger and his Mausoleum. Check out my Facebook page at the following link and learn about the book I just published!
Urban Westenberger - Fact from Fiction
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